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The J heel plates are similar to the F G and H. We have a page on the differences. Correct pattern J plates are not available so I used the F G style with a smooth finish. I should have thought to locate the original screw holes before installing the carpet, but I was able to find them from the underside of the floor.
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The seat bases are ready to install. The driver has a power seat and the base is much heavier than the manual base for the passenger. We have a video on the installation here. The J has special seat belts which it shared with the H. Although this car had the original belts, they had been shortened when the previous owner installed the 3 point belts. We used belts from Snappin' Turtle purchased years ago. They are an easy install with sister hooks ready to connect to the original anchors. These "eye bolt" anchors were used in 62, 63 and part way into 1964 before the usual bolt anchors were brought in.
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Sharp eyes may notice that the seat base chrome has not yet been installed. I had removed a set of the chrome pieces and carefully stored away, so carefully I could not find it. While looking for it, I learned that the 1963 base chrome is different from 1962. The 63 chrome is the same driver or passenger side and is the same as the 1964 driver side. The chrome trim on the front seat backs also changed for 1963. The F G & H chrome is a larger die cast piece with a different pattern. 63 chrome is unique to 63 although the F G H pieces will fit 63 seats.
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Something I never noticed, the power steering return line on some Js and Ram Ks has a unique routing. This car has it. The hose exits the steering box vertical and joins a solid steel pipe. This pipe makes a turn toward the front of the engine where it meets with another rubber hose. The steel section is secured to the inner fender with one or two mounts. This line was not secured so we took a minute to do it. The red ram K coupe from Buffalo has this steel pipe. The red ram K coupe from Florida, the grey ram K, the black J, and J3 do not. On those cars, the hose exists the box from a horizontal discharge pipe, routes toward the inner fender (and away from the exhaust header) and to the pump. I'd expect the steel line version is further away from exhaust heat and a better version.
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There is a transmission leak to chase down. It was hard to determine the source(s) of the leak. I could see fluid dripping from the edges of the pan, from the park cable, and from the shift cable. I sprayed the area with brake clean and wiped dry. I applied corn starch (a white powder similar to talc) and let it sit. The idea is you can see the fluid tracks in the white powder and follow the track back to the source. I was delighted to find the park cable and the shift cables were dry. The source of the leak appeared to be the pan. A close look at the pan showed minor damage-distortion. I hammered those areas back into shape and the leak was reduced but not done. If these pans are not almost perfectly flat, they will leak. I found a new pan on Ebay for less than $50. Rather than try to hammer the old one flat, I bought the new pan (which has an additional benefit of having a drain plug) and installed with a new gasket. The book says 150 inch pound for the pan bolts but I went with 130. No leaks and it didn't squeeze out the gasket. I found the inspection plug was not tight on the parking pawl housing; a slight leak there. A second set of eyes found the other leak -- it was brake fluid from the master cylinder running down the firewall to the park cable. Here is a video of the transmission leak.
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