Golden Lion Grrrages
1962 Chrysler 300 H Convertible
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I removed the heater button assembly to replace the switch. The job wasn't too bad although there were the normal wrestles with the Bowden cable, the retaining clip, the vacuum tube bundle and the wires. The new switch buttons work smoothly. The heater fan motor has squeaks at low speed but works all 3 speeds. The temperature regulator Bowden works good.
I received the transmission and heater switch light barriers from Quirey. The flat one fits under the heater switch, the folded one is for the transmission buttons. We have a video.
I am not satisfied with the amount of light coming out of the heater button faces. I checked the lamp, it is the right one (#1816) (38 lumens). I replaced with a new one but no improvement. I tried with the lamp tube removed, with reflective aluminum added, but there is still not a lot of light out of buttons. I bought LED lamps BA9S from Alla Lighting for $10.24 and installed. They fit right in although you can't use the tube shield on the heater side. The transmission and especially heater buttons are now nice and bright. The original 1816 lamp is 38 lumens, 4.3 watts .33 amps. The BA9s is 100 lumens, 2 watt. Three times the light and half the wattage.
Before
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After
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We are looking into making new the felt barriers around the push buttons. The same piece fits 1960-1962 transmission and heater control buttons. These barriers keep the buttons from rattling and prevent light from leaking around the sides when the headlights are on. They are often in poor shape after 60 years.
It is fairly easy to replace the felt barrier (and the light shield) in the transmission button pod. The heater switch is more involved -- the assembly won't come far out of the dash before something (Bowden cable, vacuum lines, wires) holds it back. Installing either the felt barrier or the light barrier requires the switch be unscrewed from the base. While this is not the most difficult job you will ever tackle, access is limited, patience required.
On the transmission buttons, if the push buttons have been removed several times, you might find that the metal
grips don't have enough bite on the plastic stem. The first thought is to squeeze the metal fingers together.
You are at risk of snapping a finger and then you will have to replace the entire push button mechanism.
Instead, build up the plastic stem -- use electrical tape in the channels as shown. Quick and easy, it gives you the additional grip to hold the stems in place.
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This has been a portion of the Cunningham H restoration project.
If you'd like to see more, click here.
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